An unfortunate trip to the Feejee Islands
Written by James Smeal. Edited by Merrilyn Serong.
At 5 p.m. of the 12th day of May 1861, the Eliza, a beautiful cutter of 30 tons, let go her moorings and proceeded to sea for Awalu, or Takanova,- the chief of the Feejees - a group in the South Sea Islands. On board were six gentlemen, one young lady, one seaman and the Captain. When we set sail we had a beautiful breeze from the W.S.W. and we ploughed through the main at a rate of 7 to 8 knots an hour. During the whole night there was a considerable swell from the S.W. which caused us to rock at no inconsiderable rate, whereby two of our passengers became seasick. At 10 p.m. the gentlemen withdrew on deck to allow the young lady to get to bed, as the berths were of course all in the same compartment. By 11 p.m. all were comfortably ensconced in their hammocks with the exception of the Captain and the seaman on watch. The motion of the ship prevented some from sleeping, who had not been to sea for some little time past, but all was kept very quiet. The Captain turned in at 4 bells (2 a.m.) after seeing that the course lights were all properly adjusted, and leaving instructions for the night.
The morning of the 13th came in beautifully, with every indication of a fine day and a continuation of our fair wind, as shewn by the haze astern on the southern horizon, and the cloudless blue sky above and ahead. The Barometer also continued high being at 30.2, and the Thermometer at 8 a.m. standing 60°, indicating a hot day. At 8 a.m. the gentlemen being dressed retired on deck to allow our fair fellow passenger to complete her toilet in private. At 9 a.m. all were ready to partake of a good breakfast consisting of coffee, bread, butter and steaks. After doing justice to our repast, we all went on deck to enjoy the pure bracing sea breeze. The day was a most beautiful one, and everyone tried to outdo the others by inventing some kind of amusement to pass away the time as pleasantly as possible under the circumstance. Our vessel being small, our walking space was of necessity very limited, but even had there been plenty of room we should have found it no easy matter to retain the perpendicular posture on account of the lurching of the vessel. We were therefore obliged to squat ourselves down on the deck in groups and enjoy the prospect above and around us.
Above, the sky was that shade of blue called cerulean, so often mentioned when describing an Italian scene; not a cloud was to be seen in any portion of the firmament, and the sun in unveiled splendour shed his glorious beams all around. The sea was exquisitely grand. The waves could be seen coming up from the southward direct towards us, nor seemed to fall till they reached the place where sea and sky commingle. Every wave, under the influence of the wind, forms a crest of snow-white foam, which creates a rainbow on its surface and glitters in the sunshine. Not a trace of any living thing was to be seen, except on board our own little barque.
Nothing unusual occurred during the day. Dinner-time passed, so also did tea-time without any occurrence worthy of note. At 6.30 p.m. the sun set in a glorious sky unsullied by a single cloud, and at 8 p.m. the moon rose, shedding a silver radiance over the crest of every wave, which but a short hour ago had been tinged with gold by the rays of the setting sun.
At 10 p.m. Miss McGregor retired to rest, and at 11 p.m. when the rest of us sought repose, we were dashing along at 8 knots an hour, steering due N. with a fine fresh breeze from the S.W.
The morning of the 14th was ushered in by a shower of rain of about an hour's continuance, but thereafter the clouds were blown past us, and the sun shone out as usual. After breakfast we observed a shoal of porpoises floundering about in all directions, and snorting in their usual way. Multitudes of flying-fish were also seen skimming along, evidently intending to escape from the jaws of their more powerful enemies, the porpoises. But fly as they might, they were sure to alight among a number of their enemies to which many of them fell an easy prey. None of the flying-fish came on deck, nor did any of the porpoises come within reach of a harpoon, else they should have suffered, as we were prepared for the attack. The day turned out very fine up till tea-time, when the sky became clouded and rain began to fall thickly. We therefore adjourned downstairs to read or amuse ourselves as best we could. The weather now became unsettled, showers of rain accompanying slight squalls. In consequence of this a single reef was set in the mainsail and the flying jib let down and stowed.
At 9 p.m. we all adjourned on deck to allow Miss McGregor to go to bed, after which we all retired to rest. At this time we were running 7 knots an hour, steering due N, with the wind unsteady from the S.E., and having hauled round during the day. The Captain told us before retiring that he should not go to bed at all unless the wind and weather should settle a little. Despite the rolling and pitching of the ship we were very soon all sound asleep.
On the morning of the fifteenth (15th) on going on deck, what a change was seen from the previous night. The wind had fallen very much during the night, not a cloud was now to be seen, and the sea was much calmer, so that we did not pitch so much as formerly. We were running 6 knots an hour with the wind steady from the S.E. The barometer stood 29.8, and the thermometer 54°. All possible sail was set. The reef had been taken out of the mainsail, the flying jib had again been set, and a gaff-topsail hauled up. Everything on board and ahead indicated one of those calm broiling-hot days which are by no means uncommon in the tropical latitudes. These prognostications proved to be true for by midday the heat was almost suffocating, and but for the breeze from the S.E. would have been insupportable. The fresh breeze continued the greater part of the day, and kept us on our course the whole day. In the afternoon the wind increased a little and the sea again rose to a considerable elevation. After tea the sea was so high that we were becoming drenched on deck by the spray caused by the waves dashing against our starboard side; we were therefore obliged to go down stairs to spend the evening. We passed the time by reading, playing drafts, and having a few songs from Miss McGregor and some of the gentlemen. At 9 p.m. we put on our waterproofs and adjourned on deck for a breath of fresh air, and for the smokers to enjoy their weed. We had a beautiful prospect. The Southern Cross was magnificently bright, and the Galaxy here seems to deserve its name, for it does indeed look "milky". There being no moon yet, the sea seemed to be on fire, so bright was the phosphorescence on the summit of every wave; and a long luminous track in the wake of the vessel. At 11 p.m. we all retired to rest, leaving the Captain at the wheel and the lights burning brightly.
The 16th came in very gloomy. The wind was more unsteady shifting between E.S.E. and S.S.E. and we had heavy showers of rain accompanied with an occasional flash of lightning and its accompanying peal of thunder. We still continued to make a good run, as we logged about 8 knots an hour. The sea continued very rough, at least so it appeared to us, in our small craft, and perhaps more especially so to me who had so lately left the immense ship, the "Morning Light". At midday the sky was so completely overcast that no "sight" could be taken, so that for the first time we do not know our exact position but from the "dead reckoning" the Captain thinks we are all right. He tells us there are no coral reefs in the neighbourhood, but there is an Island reported about, as he expects, 80 miles N.W. of our present position. During the entire day the lightning continued to flash very vividly in all directions, the rain came down in torrents, and the thunder pealed with such a tremendous roar as I never experienced at any time previously. The decks were so wet and slippery, and the vessel swayed so much that we had great difficulty in retaining our position on deck, and it was only done by keeping a firm hold of the rigging or railings.
At 4 p.m. the wind suddenly "chopped" round from the E.S.E. to the S. causing a very disagreeable cross sea, which caused our little craft to "pitch" and "kick" furiously. The lightning and thunder and rain still continued unabated. At 6 p.m. it became dark, not through the setting of the sun but by heavy dense black clouds veiling it in the west. The wind again hauled round to the S.E. and blew with greater force than ever. The sea now began to come in upon us, washing the decks, and drenching us all in spite of waterproofs and knee boots. The cabin door and windows were all fastened down to prevent the cabin being filled with water. All were now on deck except Miss McGregor who was below, very much frightened. On seeing the door closed down she persisted on coming on deck. Mr. Brown went down stairs to help her up, and as he was coming up he cast his eye at the barometer, and immediately called out "Captain, the glass is falling, it stands at 29.2". Down, down came the glass, but the wind still increased in power.
"Jack," cried the Captain, "haul down that flying jib and stow."
"Haul down jib and stow," was the reply. Down went the sail indicated and in two minutes it was securely lashed to the boom.
"Now," said the Captain, "come aft and double-reef this mainsail."
"Double reef mainsail," was replied, and it was done.
Down, down came the barometer till at 8 p.m., it stood 28.6, still howled and blew the wind with fury, but the rain had ceased, and the flashes of lightning were less frequent. At half past 8 the wind suddenly lulled and we lay rolling about in the great waves, sometimes on the top of an immense mass of angry roaring water and next minute down as it were in the "trough of the ocean". This lull of the "wind and waves" continued about half an hour, during which time we got some biscuits and cheese, as it was impossible to get tea cooked. Miss McGregor, thinking in her innocence, or shall I say ignorance, that all the storm and consequently danger was over, again went down stairs and undressed herself with the intention of retiring to rest. She had not been down more than 10 minutes, when we heard a voice issuing from below, singing in the sweetest and most plaintive voice I ever heard that beautiful pathetic little song "Home, sweet home", the last time, alas she would sing it, till she joined in the song of everlasting praise in the realms of bliss. Now the hearts of all on board responded to the sentiments, and I believe not a few of our eyes were dimmed with a tear as we thought of those dear and loved ones we had left behind away over the trackless deep. But we had little time left for such reflections. During this lull we had been sailing at the rate of about 5 or 6 knots an hour, but the compass was so deranged that it kept dancing about, unnoticed at first by the Captain at the helm. We had been steering out of our course during the whole day. It was too late now to alter it, as will be seen presently. At 2 bells (9 p.m.) the wind again rose not so fierce at first but increasing in power every minute. Our little craft glided gallantly on, dashing through the waves and sending the spray from bow to stern of the deck. Still down came the glass until at 28.0 it seemed undetermined whether to go up of down. Now the wind blew a hurricane indeed, and the rain again came down.
"Jack," cried the Captain, "haul down that flying jib and stow."
"Haul down jib and stow," was the reply. Down went the sail indicated and in two minutes it was securely lashed to the boom.
"Now," said the Captain, "come aft and double-reef this mainsail."
"Double reef mainsail," was replied, and it was done.
Down, down came the barometer till at 8 p.m., it stood 28.6, still howled and blew the wind with fury, but the rain had ceased, and the flashes of lightning were less frequent. At half past 8 the wind suddenly lulled and we lay rolling about in the great waves, sometimes on the top of an immense mass of angry roaring water and next minute down as it were in the "trough of the ocean". This lull of the "wind and waves" continued about half an hour, during which time we got some biscuits and cheese, as it was impossible to get tea cooked. Miss McGregor, thinking in her innocence, or shall I say ignorance, that all the storm and consequently danger was over, again went down stairs and undressed herself with the intention of retiring to rest. She had not been down more than 10 minutes, when we heard a voice issuing from below, singing in the sweetest and most plaintive voice I ever heard that beautiful pathetic little song "Home, sweet home", the last time, alas she would sing it, till she joined in the song of everlasting praise in the realms of bliss. Now the hearts of all on board responded to the sentiments, and I believe not a few of our eyes were dimmed with a tear as we thought of those dear and loved ones we had left behind away over the trackless deep. But we had little time left for such reflections. During this lull we had been sailing at the rate of about 5 or 6 knots an hour, but the compass was so deranged that it kept dancing about, unnoticed at first by the Captain at the helm. We had been steering out of our course during the whole day. It was too late now to alter it, as will be seen presently. At 2 bells (9 p.m.) the wind again rose not so fierce at first but increasing in power every minute. Our little craft glided gallantly on, dashing through the waves and sending the spray from bow to stern of the deck. Still down came the glass until at 28.0 it seemed undetermined whether to go up of down. Now the wind blew a hurricane indeed, and the rain again came down.
So fierce was the wind that we had all extreme difficulty in remaining on deck at all, being nearly blown overboard. The Captain said "This will never do, we must lay to till this be over." The Captain cried "Jack, stand by that jib-sheet till I give the word."
"Stand by jib-sheet," was replied.
"Doctor, stand by the Peak haulyards."
"Stand by Peak haulyards," I replied.
"Mr. Brown, stand by the Throat haulyards," said the Captain.
"Aye, Aye," was replied.
The Captain, thinking he was not heard, roared in a voice like thunder, "Stand by the Throat haulyards, Brown."
"Stand by Throat haulyards," was Mr. Brown's reply at last.
The sky was now somewhat clearer, but the spray dashing about at such a rate that we could see neither one way nor another.
The Captain was now commencing to bring round the vessel's head, and cried "Ready."
"Ready," was instantly replied by all who were engaged, and I had the end of the rope called the peak haulyard in my hand ready to let it off the belaying-pin, - when suddenly, without a soul on board hearing the sound of the breakers ahead, the vessel struck - not a dead blow forwards against the treacherous rocks, but with a grating crash along her hull, causing her to quiver from stem to stern. Oh! what were the agonies of the moment, hope, fear, regret, with a shudder respectively seized my mind. Next moment a scream from Miss McGregor told the melancholy tale - she was filling. At this time she was lying on her port side on against the rock or coral reef whatever it might be, bringing her on broadside to the full sweep of the immense waves. The Captain still holding by the wheel cried, "Good God. What's this?" when another breaker dashed against our starboard and I knew no more till I found myself down, down as I imagined near the bottom of the sea. In two or three seconds I was again on the surface of the water on the top of a wave, when I saw, Oh! misery of miseries! the vessel lifted, - lifted clean over the reef and fall down and sink with a gurgling noise into the watery abyss. The same wave which had uplifted the vessel, again sent me down into the depths below, when I was nearly suffocated. Still I struggled, and in a few seconds I felt my head above the waters, and at the same time I experienced a severe shock on my back and as I imagined a kick on the lower part of my body which nearly stunned me. I instinctively and instantly seized hold of that which struck my back, and to my inexpressible relief found I clasped a log of wood. To this then I held on and drew my breath, and I immediately perceived that the next moment would decide my fate, - if I was able to retain my hold of the plank against the force of the next wave which seemed a mountain in magnitude, I might be saved - if the wave washed me off, then I would be lost indeed. With all the energy of which I was possessed I clung to this my only hope of life, and although I was immediately overwhelmed by the next wave I had the satisfaction of finding myself in a few seconds again above the waters and respiring, although with every breath of air I also got a mouthful of spray. As soon as I emerged from under the wave I heard a groan and a voice, deep and sepulchral, exclaim in a gurgling manner, "O! God have mercy on me." I called out "Who's there?" when the welcome voice of the Captain replied, "For God's sake, Doctor, hold on, here's land not a quarter of a mile off." Before he had finished speaking, a scream, thrilling, heart-rending, almost unearthly, rent the air, above the roar of the wind and the dashing of the waves. We both recognised the voice of our fellow sufferer, poor Miss McGregor, but ere we could make any articulation whatever we were again under a tumultuous heap of waters. As soon as we again emerged I called at the highest pitch of my voice, "Miss McGregor," but no answer was returned save the howling of the winds and no reply save the dashing of the waters. Just as the next wave came upon us, again that shriek rent the air and pierced our very souls, but we were instantly overwhelmed. On again respiring I asked the Captain, "What is this?" He replied "It is the spare boom."
Again that scream, more shrill and faint, fell upon our ears and again we were underneath the billows. With the energy of desperation we still clung to the boom, while we were thus successively submerged and again lifted by the advancing waves. We both called on our fellow passengers but again no voice answered but the howling of the tempest.
"Stand by jib-sheet," was replied.
"Doctor, stand by the Peak haulyards."
"Stand by Peak haulyards," I replied.
"Mr. Brown, stand by the Throat haulyards," said the Captain.
"Aye, Aye," was replied.
The Captain, thinking he was not heard, roared in a voice like thunder, "Stand by the Throat haulyards, Brown."
"Stand by Throat haulyards," was Mr. Brown's reply at last.
The sky was now somewhat clearer, but the spray dashing about at such a rate that we could see neither one way nor another.
The Captain was now commencing to bring round the vessel's head, and cried "Ready."
"Ready," was instantly replied by all who were engaged, and I had the end of the rope called the peak haulyard in my hand ready to let it off the belaying-pin, - when suddenly, without a soul on board hearing the sound of the breakers ahead, the vessel struck - not a dead blow forwards against the treacherous rocks, but with a grating crash along her hull, causing her to quiver from stem to stern. Oh! what were the agonies of the moment, hope, fear, regret, with a shudder respectively seized my mind. Next moment a scream from Miss McGregor told the melancholy tale - she was filling. At this time she was lying on her port side on against the rock or coral reef whatever it might be, bringing her on broadside to the full sweep of the immense waves. The Captain still holding by the wheel cried, "Good God. What's this?" when another breaker dashed against our starboard and I knew no more till I found myself down, down as I imagined near the bottom of the sea. In two or three seconds I was again on the surface of the water on the top of a wave, when I saw, Oh! misery of miseries! the vessel lifted, - lifted clean over the reef and fall down and sink with a gurgling noise into the watery abyss. The same wave which had uplifted the vessel, again sent me down into the depths below, when I was nearly suffocated. Still I struggled, and in a few seconds I felt my head above the waters, and at the same time I experienced a severe shock on my back and as I imagined a kick on the lower part of my body which nearly stunned me. I instinctively and instantly seized hold of that which struck my back, and to my inexpressible relief found I clasped a log of wood. To this then I held on and drew my breath, and I immediately perceived that the next moment would decide my fate, - if I was able to retain my hold of the plank against the force of the next wave which seemed a mountain in magnitude, I might be saved - if the wave washed me off, then I would be lost indeed. With all the energy of which I was possessed I clung to this my only hope of life, and although I was immediately overwhelmed by the next wave I had the satisfaction of finding myself in a few seconds again above the waters and respiring, although with every breath of air I also got a mouthful of spray. As soon as I emerged from under the wave I heard a groan and a voice, deep and sepulchral, exclaim in a gurgling manner, "O! God have mercy on me." I called out "Who's there?" when the welcome voice of the Captain replied, "For God's sake, Doctor, hold on, here's land not a quarter of a mile off." Before he had finished speaking, a scream, thrilling, heart-rending, almost unearthly, rent the air, above the roar of the wind and the dashing of the waves. We both recognised the voice of our fellow sufferer, poor Miss McGregor, but ere we could make any articulation whatever we were again under a tumultuous heap of waters. As soon as we again emerged I called at the highest pitch of my voice, "Miss McGregor," but no answer was returned save the howling of the winds and no reply save the dashing of the waters. Just as the next wave came upon us, again that shriek rent the air and pierced our very souls, but we were instantly overwhelmed. On again respiring I asked the Captain, "What is this?" He replied "It is the spare boom."
Again that scream, more shrill and faint, fell upon our ears and again we were underneath the billows. With the energy of desperation we still clung to the boom, while we were thus successively submerged and again lifted by the advancing waves. We both called on our fellow passengers but again no voice answered but the howling of the tempest.
No voice was thereafter heard, so we imagined that the last shriek was the dying wail of our poor unfortunate friend, Miss McGregor, and that the other male passengers were drowned or washed away in another direction, else they would have answered our call. Wave after wave came over us while we two clung to this pole. After being in the water for about two hours, as near as we could compute, being alternatively submerged and liberated from the great waves, and during which time we must have drifted a long way, we began to hear again the noise of breakers direct ahead of us. In a few minutes this increased so much that we could hear the individual waves breaking with a sullen roar against the rocks, and sending the spray up to an immense height. Now for the first time I caught a glimpse of the mainland, at least such it seemed to me, and although it certainly looked drear, and barren and desolate enough, yet to our eyes now it looked a Paradise, for there our hopes of succour from a watery grave lay. The Captain exclaimed "Good God, we shall be dashed to pieces on the rocks, let go and swim ashore."
"Never till -, " I replied and was instantly submerged.
"Never till I feel the ground," I said on emerging. We were rapidly advancing on to the rocks, where we would have met with instantaneous death, but a wave returning from the shore drove us back and sent us further round the end of the island. My feet and hands now became cold and numb, more especially my hands on account of the cramped position in which I was obliged to hold my fingers locked between each other. Again we were underneath the waves and this time I felt my head ache, and thought I saw balls of fire flash before my eyes. On again coming out I said, "I am falling off, Captain. I can hold no longer," when he replied "For God's sake hold on for five minutes and we will be saved." On came the "rollers" and this time my hands slipped, slid round the wood till I was hanging by my nails alone, I experienced a tightening in my head as if it would burst, great balls as of liquid fire darted before my eyes, and I felt a suffocating grasping on my throat. Again we breathed and I was thus able to grasp with a hug of despair our saving boom. As wave after wave past over us, and five minutes after five minutes slipped away, and no signs of being saved appeared, I began to despair of life, and as again under the billows my head felt as if it would give way and the great fire balls flashed from my eyes, the scenes of my past life sprung up before me and appeared as giant spectres to my bewildered imagination. Then scenes were presented before my mind, scenes of the loved ones at home sitting quietly at home by the cheerful fire, scenes which only seemed to render my own present situation more woeful, and at last as I felt my hands give way I cried in a voice of despair, "I'm gone." How long I may have been in an insensible state I do not know, but I again felt the wind blowing on my face, and something tugging at my shoulders. The Captain, seeing me fall off caught hold of my coat and now I heard his voice saying, "Catch hold man, for God's sake catch hold." I did as ordered, repeating what I took for an order on board ship "Catch hold, Sir." On recovering my bewildered senses I found that we had got into smoother water and that the land, instead of being before us was behind us. We had been carried completely round the point of the island and were now under the lee of it, so that the wind was scarcely felt at all, and the waves were diminished to one half their former magnitude, besides which they had ceased here to break. After thus resting on our pole for a few minutes the Captain said, "Now for your life, get to the other side of our boom and kick ashore." I did as ordered, but it required great care and also a great deal of labour to manage it. This accomplished was an indescribable relief, because whereas I was formerly obliged to hang by my hands alone, I could now throw my arms over the boom and rest my breast against it. Now began our own efforts, but for a long time I could do nothing, I was so exhausted with the cold, and the cramp in my fingers, besides which I had on my long waterproof coat which materially impeded the motion of my legs. To have attempted to get it off would have been madness, for to loose my hold of the boom were certain death in my exhausted condition. In about half an hour, although to me it seemed more like half a year, by means of kicking as best we could, aided by the force of the waves, my feet touched a rock, O joyful sensation, but we were immediately carried back by the receding wave. Again and again we were carried on to the rocks, and again and again were we carried back by the receding waves. On again we came and on receding I found to my surprise that I was alone on the boom, but on looking ashore there stood the Captain up to his armpits holding on to a shelf of the rock. As soon as he got a firm footing on the rock, he called to me to get out to the end of the boom, which I accomplished. He then told me to catch hold of the rock with one hand as soon as I was again brought up. This I did, but found my hands so numb that I could not hold and was therefore again carried back. By this time the sea under the lee of the rocks had calmed down very much, but I was fearful of letting go my hold of the boom in case I should be again washed out to sea. A second, third, and fourth time did I catch at the rock, missed my hold and was again carried back. Again a fifth time did I catch with my left hand and in a moment raised my right and seized another portion of the rocks. My boom being now deserted was again carried out to sea, and I was left hanging from the rocks with the toes of my left foot resting on a small ledge of the same.
"Never till -, " I replied and was instantly submerged.
"Never till I feel the ground," I said on emerging. We were rapidly advancing on to the rocks, where we would have met with instantaneous death, but a wave returning from the shore drove us back and sent us further round the end of the island. My feet and hands now became cold and numb, more especially my hands on account of the cramped position in which I was obliged to hold my fingers locked between each other. Again we were underneath the waves and this time I felt my head ache, and thought I saw balls of fire flash before my eyes. On again coming out I said, "I am falling off, Captain. I can hold no longer," when he replied "For God's sake hold on for five minutes and we will be saved." On came the "rollers" and this time my hands slipped, slid round the wood till I was hanging by my nails alone, I experienced a tightening in my head as if it would burst, great balls as of liquid fire darted before my eyes, and I felt a suffocating grasping on my throat. Again we breathed and I was thus able to grasp with a hug of despair our saving boom. As wave after wave past over us, and five minutes after five minutes slipped away, and no signs of being saved appeared, I began to despair of life, and as again under the billows my head felt as if it would give way and the great fire balls flashed from my eyes, the scenes of my past life sprung up before me and appeared as giant spectres to my bewildered imagination. Then scenes were presented before my mind, scenes of the loved ones at home sitting quietly at home by the cheerful fire, scenes which only seemed to render my own present situation more woeful, and at last as I felt my hands give way I cried in a voice of despair, "I'm gone." How long I may have been in an insensible state I do not know, but I again felt the wind blowing on my face, and something tugging at my shoulders. The Captain, seeing me fall off caught hold of my coat and now I heard his voice saying, "Catch hold man, for God's sake catch hold." I did as ordered, repeating what I took for an order on board ship "Catch hold, Sir." On recovering my bewildered senses I found that we had got into smoother water and that the land, instead of being before us was behind us. We had been carried completely round the point of the island and were now under the lee of it, so that the wind was scarcely felt at all, and the waves were diminished to one half their former magnitude, besides which they had ceased here to break. After thus resting on our pole for a few minutes the Captain said, "Now for your life, get to the other side of our boom and kick ashore." I did as ordered, but it required great care and also a great deal of labour to manage it. This accomplished was an indescribable relief, because whereas I was formerly obliged to hang by my hands alone, I could now throw my arms over the boom and rest my breast against it. Now began our own efforts, but for a long time I could do nothing, I was so exhausted with the cold, and the cramp in my fingers, besides which I had on my long waterproof coat which materially impeded the motion of my legs. To have attempted to get it off would have been madness, for to loose my hold of the boom were certain death in my exhausted condition. In about half an hour, although to me it seemed more like half a year, by means of kicking as best we could, aided by the force of the waves, my feet touched a rock, O joyful sensation, but we were immediately carried back by the receding wave. Again and again we were carried on to the rocks, and again and again were we carried back by the receding waves. On again we came and on receding I found to my surprise that I was alone on the boom, but on looking ashore there stood the Captain up to his armpits holding on to a shelf of the rock. As soon as he got a firm footing on the rock, he called to me to get out to the end of the boom, which I accomplished. He then told me to catch hold of the rock with one hand as soon as I was again brought up. This I did, but found my hands so numb that I could not hold and was therefore again carried back. By this time the sea under the lee of the rocks had calmed down very much, but I was fearful of letting go my hold of the boom in case I should be again washed out to sea. A second, third, and fourth time did I catch at the rock, missed my hold and was again carried back. Again a fifth time did I catch with my left hand and in a moment raised my right and seized another portion of the rocks. My boom being now deserted was again carried out to sea, and I was left hanging from the rocks with the toes of my left foot resting on a small ledge of the same.
After the recession of the second wave I was enabled by the aid of the Captain to gain a footing, and we clambered up to the top of the island, but we were glad to return again to the lee shore, for on, on came the angry waves against the other side, causing a deafening roar and sending the spray in all directions.
Thus after being in the water at least four hours according to the course of the moon and stars as nearly as we could guess, we found ourselves once more on solid ground. Now one feeling filled our breasts that of heartfelt gratitude to the Almighty disposer of events who had been pleased thus to save our bodies from a watery grave and it may be, our souls from Eternal Darkness. Words cannot describe nor language tell the ecstasies and the transports of joy which animated my soul. Being in a very exhausted and feeble condition we were obliged to lay ourselves down on the rocks to rest. As we lay here for some time without any words being exchanged between us, and as we heard the howling of the tempest and the angry roaring of the waters, we could not refrain from casting our thoughts to those of our fellow passengers who had evidently perished in the waves. Now we imagined, and would start up with a fright, that we heard the scream of our poor Miss McGregor, but no it was but the roaring of the wind. Then we fancied a hoarse voice as of a man called, but no it was but the dash and the echo of the waters. Ah! that dying scream, heard above the din and war of the elements, how it pierces my very heart yet and rings in my ears, and never shall be obliterated from my memory till "time to me shall be no more."
17th — All night long did we continue on the bare hard rocks in our wet clothes, while the rain continued to fall heavily and the lightning and thunder remained unabated. Long did that night seem, and morning seemed to be delaying its approach, but at last the dawn appeared on the eastern horizon, and in a few minutes more we were blessed with daylight, but only to reveal to us our awful position. We soon arose as cold as ice and trembling like an aspen leaf with fatigue. During the night we had both fallen asleep with exhaustion, and although we felt a little refreshed we were sadly depressed.
We rose up to survey our "ocean home", and to our horror found that it was a barren rock, not a green leaf to quench the pangs of hunger - not a drop of fresh water to cool a burning tongue. Some holes we did discover in the rocks filled with water, but it was all salt. Now we concluded that we had only escaped a watery grave to die a death more awful - starvation, but then "Hope, glorious hope" sprung up anew in our hearts, and we trusted that that Providence which had thus mercifully saved our lives once, might still provide some means of escape from death for those whose lives had evidently been spared for some purpose of His own. As the rain still continued to descend upon us, we were glad to retire to some sheltered hole in the rocks, where by removing our waterproofs, the heat of our bodies might dry part of our clothing. We stripped off boots and stockings and rubbed our feet and legs for a considerable time, which caused the circulation to become a little more brisk, and consequently the animal heat to increase in proportion. But we were still cold, and we could not remove our clothing as the rain continued all day incessantly. The wind however had died away very much so that the waves had diminished very much in magnitude, but they still continued to break with a sullen roar against the weather-side of the rocks, which was the East, and which were of considerable height. The spray, however, had ceased to play over the top so that we could now at midday mount to the top and survey the scene of our disaster. What a melancholy spectacle was presented to our view! Look where we might, to the North, or to the South or to the East or to the West, nothing was to be seen but the everlasting waters in tumultuous heaps. Nothing, did I say, yes, about ½ mile to the S.E. was scarcely discernible a break in the everlasting roll, indicating the site of the rock or coral reef on which we struck. On turning to the west again we observed a white streak rising and falling on the waves, and on descending to the shore found it to be the body of our poor young friend, Miss McGregor. Her night dress was her winding sheet, and the angry waves her last resting place, but we trust that she, who, in the midst of the war of the elements, could sing of "Home, Sweet Home" on earth, may be permitted, in that land where sighing and sorrowing are unknown, to sing the song of everlasting joy - "Heaven is my home" for evermore.
We saw no vestige whatever of any of our other fellow passengers, so that they must have met with an ocean grave and been drifted away in other directions. The pangs of an empty stomach now commenced to torment us, and the gnawing pain continued till evening when it gave way to an intolerable thirst for a cool drink. During the remainder of the day and most of the night the rain continued to fall, so that we could catch a few drops of the rain in our mouths which was a great relief. We slept but little during the night, and that only by snatches, as whenever we fell away to sleep we were startled by the noise of the water, or by the sound of a scream, as if the voice of some of our fellow passengers called.
18th — When we rose up in the morning the rain had ceased, and the sun began to shine promising a hot day. We now stripped to the skin to have our clothes dried. This was soon done as the sun's heat became intense by midday, which increased our awful thirst. Our clothing now consisted of our shirts and drawers with our stockings pulled half way up our legs. Our dry condition was now a great comfort to us, but we were tormented fearfully with the never ceasing thirst. All feeling of hunger had died away, or at least was not felt in comparison to that of thirst. Towards evening we felt a terrible oppression at the stomach, as if our very throat, gullet, and stomach were on fire. Our heads became hot, with a feeling of tension, at first relieved by pressure, but afterwards most excruciating. Our mouths were dry and burning and our tongues seemed to cleave to the roof of the mouth. We became very listless towards night, and although after sunset the cool of the evening felt pleasant, yet about 9 or 10 o'clock it became intensely cold, so much so that even with all our clothing, and seeking shelter under the rocks, our hands and feet became numb and blue. A giddiness and dimness came over our eyes, and still the awful, excruciating, agonising, burning thirst tormented us. We felt weak and prostrated with want, cold, and anxiety of watching all day long in the hopes of seeing some vestige of a vessel to relieve us from apparent death.
Our hopes all day were doomed to disappointment, and when the shades of night gathered around us once more, all hope seemed to die out of our bosoms. and we sat ourselves down and tears gushed from our eyes as we again thought of all the dear and loved ones we were destined apparently never more to behold on earth, and yet earnestly, fervently did we pray to that benevolent Providence which had so far watched over our lives , that He who "holds the tempest in the hollow of his hand" would yet be pleased to stretch forth his hand and save us from a second death, and in the bitterness of our very loneliness we could only cry "Lord, remember me." At length towards midnight we began to feel sleepy and the Captain proposed that we should sleep for an hour or two by turns, lest, should we both sleep we might perhaps allow the light of a ship to pass unnoticed, or we might both continue to sleep so long that benumbed by cold we might sleep the sleep of death. I agreed to do so and to keep the first watch, which I did for two hours, as nearly as we could guess from the course of the stars. Of course we had both our watches but they would not go from the effects of the salt-water which had got into them. When I awoke the Captain, he began to grumble and speak of his wife and children, saying it was too bad to take him from his warm bed and his dear little ones, but he soon recovered his senses and attempted to get up, which however he could not accomplish at first on account of the swelling and stiffness of his legs. He complained that he could see nothing whatever but a black cloud and shivered with the cold. I endeavoured to make him exercise himself a little while I slept. I slept for two hours and then was awoke by the Captain, and on attempting to get up, found I could not on account of the swelling and stiffness in my legs. The same feeling of dizziness and dimness of sight attacked me as the Captain described. Neither of us went to sleep again but remained sitting, and talked of our prospects before us till daybreak. We observed that for two hours before sunrise the cold became intense, so that we almost perished with it, nor were we able to exert ourselves in the least to keep up the animal heat. Again the thirst increased as the day advanced - the gnawing pain, the sense of debility at the stomach, the hot burning sensation in the mouth and throat, the giddiness, the dimness of vision, the feeling of tension or constriction in the head, all returned with renewed force until we felt ready to throw ourselves into the sea and escape a death which seemed to be more dreadful tenfold than drowning. We now cut up our boots and chewed a piece of the inside solid leather, it not being so saturated with salt water, so violent was the thirst that we thought that anything to increase the flow of saliva would assuage the burning sensation. When the morning was well advanced, the heat increased greatly, so that we now ascended to the top of the rock to survey the ocean to see if we could not perceive any trace of a vessel. As we saw none, our hearts sank within us, and the Captain became rather delirious, his countenance was pale and shrunken, his eyes glistened with an unsteady stare, his cheeks looked as if they had sunk in allowing the cheek bones and temples to become prominent so that he had almost a cadaverous appearance, and his breath was unsufferably hot and disagreeable. At the same time I felt my head beginning to reel round, my eye almost starting from my sockets, balls of fire seemed to flash in all directions before me and my imagination began to wander back to scenes and places far beyond my reach, until with excitement we became so weak that we could not stand. I suppose my own appearance must have been something like what I have described of the Captain's, although I could see it not. About midday I saw a small cloud on the horizon away to the south and called the Captain's attention to it where he only replied "More rain, more squalls, haul in the flying jib." I tried to arouse him by speaking of hopes which I dare not myself entertain, and succeeded in making him speak a little more rationally, but we were both of us so weak that we could not stand. Our legs became very painful and hot and the swelling increased also in our feet and ankles so much that we were obliged to take off our boots altogether. Thus we lay on the rocks looking wistfully around all over the everlasting sheet of waters that never seemed to move and yet never were at rest, till all hope of life was nearly extinguished in our breasts and we had come to the conclusion that we might make up our minds to lie where we were to die, to let these hard, desolate inhospitable rocks be our last resting place, and the ocean murmur our funeral knell. Here we were to die, without a fond one near to close our failing eyes, without a loved one here to soothe the pangs of the dying pillow, and without a friend near to whisper the hopes of a better world to flee to "where the wicked cease from troubling, and the weary are at rest." Here we were to die, and our death would ever be a mystery to all who knew us, our fate a theme of conjecture at the warm fireside. As these thoughts passed through my mind, I was led to exclaim "Oh my brothers and my sisters and you loved ones of my bosom, would that I had remained with you, to be buried by your dear hands in a peaceful grave, untorn by the screaming fowls of the air, uneaten by the hungry shark of the sea."
The cloud that we had noticed before as very small and lying on the horizon was still in sight and although small it seemed much nearer than it was two hours before. I saw the Captain gazing wistfully in the direction of that cloud, and to attract his attention I said, "Captain, see how near that cloud is coming." He started up exclaiming "What cloud?" I pointed to it and he said only, in a mournful tone, "Aye, I have been watching it long enough," and immediately sank down again, but he kept his eye on it still. In a few minutes more he leaped up, despite his sore legs, exclaiming in a most excited manner, "It is, - it is - it is - it is a sail," and fell down exhausted with the effort. I kept my eye upon it for a short time longer and observed it moving rather curiously until I also became assured that it was a vessel. Now our hopes ran high that she would bear near enough to be seen, then we would say, no, she will keep away to the east and pass at too great a distance to discern us. She came nearer and nearer till we could distinguish her rig - a foretopsail schooner. Gradually she bore down upon us till we imagined she was about four miles off, when her head was turned at least four points to the east, and our hearts and hopes again were blasted. The Captain however took off his white shirt and waved it overhead for some little time and then I relieved him, and this we continued for an hour.
The vessel seemed sailing away past us at a distance of about two miles, unknowingly passing two wretched beings whom they might now rescue from certain death. The wind being very light her speed was but very slow, so that she was a very long time in view. At last, at 4 o'clock we both waved the shirt and shouted at the highest pitch of our voices for a few minutes, when we observed a motion on board as of men running backwards and forwards, and then a flag appeared at the main gaff arm and the Captain immediately said "Thank God, we are saved, there goes the Union Jack." The vessel head immediately veered round and bore down upon us till she was within hail, when they lowered their boat and came for us. We were so weak and exhausted that we could neither walk nor speak, and had to be carried on board and then lifted on board the vessel which was the "Jane" a schooner of about 60 tons bound for Takanova for a cargo of fruit. When we got on board we were put on mattresses on the deck and an awning hoisted over us, and all our cry was water, water, water. The Captain gave us a small quantity of brandy and water very weak and no tongue, but those that have experienced the want of it, can tell the delightful, luxuriant feeling which that liquid communicated to our parched and burning mouths. As soon as we could, we told our tale, when we were informed that there was also another vessel amissing, and that two other vessels had been sent out in search, but had not then returned. As soon as our thirst was a little quenched our hunger returned with a fury inexpressible, and we could have eaten a horse had it been in our way, but the Captain would only give us a very small quantity of arrowroot with brandy in it, which did satisfy the craving a little, but our hunger was still unappeased. We were only allowed to eat a very small piece of anything at a time, which of course I knew to be the proper plan, but still could I have put my hand on a loaf of bread I should have eaten it at once, so great was the feeling of want. We were at once put to bed into the Captain's and mate's berths, our feet and legs were fomented with lukewarm water, and at my request small doses of opium were given us to quiet the nervous system, soon after which I believe we both fell asleep.
After sleeping for five or six hours, I awoke and looked around to see the sea, but no sea was there. I was in a small cabin, covered up with blankets, and as I was wet with perspiration, I felt round about me to make sure I was not still in the sea. Now all that had taken place recurred to my recollection, and I felt as if in a new world, and my heart overflowed with gratitude to that benevolent providence which had thus preserved my body from double death, and it might be, my soul from eternal perdition.
We were very kindly treated on board the "Jane", and to Captain Carmichael I shall bear in my heart feelings of the most heartfelt gratitude for all his kindnesses to me in my weak, forlorn, and desolate condition. We had a very speedy run up to Awalu and came in sight of Takanova, the capital, on the 24th. Before we had fairly anchored here, as at Auckland in New Zealand, we were surrounded by dozens of natives in their canoes, called pirogues, offering for sale fruits, fish, shellfish, etc.
The fruits here are most gorgeous. Palms grow to an immense height, also cocoa nut trees with monkeys running among the branches, but the nuts are eaten by the natives when the pulp is quite soft and milky, and they only use the fluid inside when the nut itself becomes hard. Then we have the bread fruit, a magnificent tree, and as this is the first time I had seen it, I was determined to make a good meal. I was lodging in the hut of a native woman whom I got to cook some for me. It is cut in slices and roasted between two hot stones. The tree grows to a height of 60 or 80 feet, and has leaves about three feet long and a foot broad and deeply serrated. The bread fruit is shaped like a water melon, green outside which is scraped off, and it weighs altogether about 13 lbs. Its taste is delicious, much before potatoes, and very like bread baked with milk and sugar.
There are also bananas, the fruit of which is very luscious, and when fully or over ripe tastes like a mouthful of thick honey with a very small quantity of the juice of an apple in it. Another species of banana called plantain, grows very abundantly and is exported very largely to New Zealand and Australia, and especially to Sydney where I have seen whole boat loads of it sold for real bananas. There are also mangos and guavas, many kinds of spice, such as clove, mace, cinnamon, etc., and groves of oranges for miles in length, where perfume may be perceived five miles off, and from which I have pulled oranges nearly as large as my head. All oranges for exportation are pulled green and they ripen on the voyage. I only remained on the island four days, as in that time the cargo of the "Jane" was stowed and she was ready for sea. Captain Carmichael gave Captain Anderson and myself a free passage to Sydney where we arrived safely after a run of about a fortnight.
Editor's note
James Smeal travelled on the last voyage of the Eliza as Ship’s Surgeon to a group of business people who planned to visit the Feejee (Fiji) Islands. After his rescue and return to Sydney, he arrived in Melbourne again by 16 July 1861, as that day he was married in Melbourne to Louisa Reynolds. Apparently they had met when she was a passenger and he Ship’s Surgeon on board the Morning Light on its voyage from Liverpool to Melbourne, Oct 1860 to Jan 1861. Presumably he wrote the account of his unfortunate trip aboard the Eliza and subsequent rescue when back in Australia. It was included in the same book in which he had written his Morning Light diary. For notes and explanations on particular names, events or terminology in the account, please see the Glossary.
The words in blue above link to other pages on this website.
The words in blue above link to other pages on this website.
In Memoriam
The poem, In Memoriam, follows the account of the unfortunate trip on board the Eliza.
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1
Today the sky is beautiful, And basking in the light, The autumn flowers and autumn fields Drink in the sunshine bright; The reaper bends to gather in The golden fruits of earth, And gladsome voices fill the air With melody and mirth |
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2
But lo! a flash, a cry, a crash, A solemn thunder peal, And hearts that towered in hope and joy, Tremble, and rock and reel: Sad tidings from a far, far clime Have told a tale of grief, And weeping sorrow ponders o’er The words that mock belief. |
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3
Oh India! land of pearl and gold, Thou hast full many a gem, Which we have given the while to gild, The queenly diadem! But oh! the treasure ne’er return, But sleep far o’er the wave, Upon thy shore, beneath the turf Of many a lonely grave. |
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4
And is she gone – the one whose smile ‘Twas gladsome still to see, In earliest years, and in the time Of girlhood’s joyous glee, On till the day that bore her hence A happy wedded wife; A spotless blossom to adorn A distant scene of life? |
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5
Oh, Maker! who hast made so fair This beauteous world of ours – Transplanting, as it were, from Heaven To earth immortal flowers – Thou givest with a liberal hand, Nor is it meet we mourn What time the treasure back again Is to thy bosom borne. |
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The sleep in peace, who was so kind, So innocent and fair; I know the spot, for I have stood And sighed in sorrow there – Where many a weary wanderer rests Who crossed the ocean foam, To find a grave far, far away From distant friends and home |
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7
What sounds are these that fill the breeze Discordant, long, and loud? What means the wild tumultuous hum That ushers on the crowd? Hark! ‘tis the time of festal rites, And at the idol’s shrine, The worship and the worshippers In wild ovations join. |
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8
But other sounds divinely fill The sleepers silent ear – Angelic melodies that thrill The high celestial sphere; And other worship meets her eyes, Now closed on earthly things Where seraphs stand, and cherubs veil Their faces with their wings |
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At morn the orient dews are bright, As tears above her bed, At noon the beams of India’s sun Upon her bier are shed; At eve, in twilight’s solemn hour, The soft winds gently sigh, Amid the sombre trees that hymn A holy requiem by. |
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10
How weak we are in conflict stern, – How strange, how wondrous strange, – The seas roll on, the shores abide The mountains know no change; But deathless treasures, near and dear, Surrounding us in life, Are fragile things that, trembling, fall And perish in the strife. |
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11
Oh! slumberer on the Indian shore, Thy coffined form may sleep, Fast by where Glittering Gunga rolls Her waters broad and deep; But thou shalt live, and speak, and smile, Till many a year departs, Within the shrine that memory builds In warm and loving hearts. |
